Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.